April 5 - Elephanta Island

We count ourselves as quite rugged for getting from the L shaped quay, up the stairs and ramps the 200' to the level on Elephanta Island of the World Heritage site, the Elephant Caves. The way was lined with merchants and food vendors, mostly under blue plastic tarps, with a few solid buildings here and there – one to the left. Except for a few battered Ganeshas, the huge elephant stone carvings have been moved elsewhere, but the full reliefs, carved 1400 years ago from the walls of the man-made caves are breath-taking. The reflected light from Mumbai Harbor shines deep into the caves, giving the surfaces a mysterious glow. These are three of the eight guards of the chamber of the sacred lingam. Here a side cave lingam in a freestanding room attracted families, couples and newlyweds, as well as tourists. Two lions guard the opening. Even in disrepair, some of it caused by cannonfire when the Portuguese thought they owned the place (pre British). In the main chamber at the back wall the three-visaged Vishnu overlooks all. The destroyer, creator and contemplator aspects of the God resonated with Gail, as did the form and scale. Outside, the monkeys ran rampant, stealing food from visitors. This enterprising mom has just been hanging by her hind feet to sip from the water tank supplying the restrooms. Wash your hands! As we retreated through the gauntlet of merchants, the tide and sun also lowered, leaving us with this image from the mangrove forest surrounding the quay and one of three vilages on the island. The tourist guides do not mention the two container shipping terminals on the island, they weren't as romantic. Back across the harbor, we just had time to take in a very moving exhibit of photographs by Homai Vyarawalla of Bombay in the 1930's and the formation of modern India and Pakistan in '47 – 48'. She was at that time a staff photographer for the British. Great pictures of Gandhi, Nehru, Montgomery, and later, Queen Elisabeth and even Jackie Kennedy.

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